
You've
all heard the stories about whole fleets of whaling ships taken down by
the mythological Kraken - a tentacle-wielding Neptunian monster who
swallows ships whole, and eats young sailors like mere bar nuts? No? Go
read some books. Yes? Well you know what I had on my hands. I came face
to face with own Kraken last week. God knows what he was doing in my
kitchen, but I managed to tame the bastard with red wine, fish stock
and some shallots. I did originally intend him for the silly season,
but my freezer went on the blink and I had no choice but to cook him a
la moment. First, I needed a sharp sword to slice him up.

The
nice chaps at Ocean Fresh (Park Slope) removed eyes, ink sac, beak and
those nasty bits. They even put Kraken to a deep sleep in their massive
freezer, the sharp growing ice crystals tenderising the succulent
flesh. (I hear that putting a wine cork into your pot while cooking
Kraken helps the process - either that or spend a few hours flailing
the bugger against a rock, while Sirens sing to you). Next step is to
sear and dehydrate. There does seems to be a lot of the Kraken before I
lower him into a hot Dutch oven, then I hear hissing and a crackle and
within a few seconds, the pot is filled with octo-juice and some vastly
shrunken pieces of cephalopod. They must dissolve, I deduce. I
maintained the high heat until the OJ had vanished and the Kraken
turned an appetizing pink colour.

Next
comes a slug of olive oil, a handful of roughly chopped shallots. 2
crushed garlic cloves, about a cup of red wine, some rather
cheerful-looking fish stock (half cup), a cup of tomato sauce, or
crushed tomatoes and some herbs, whatever you have (I had thyme, some
bay leaves, a bit of parsley). I stewed for about an hour, maybe thirty
minutes longer, I just kept testing.

I reckon it should have the al-dente quality of just-cooked pasta, but of
course it's a very personal thing. I did deviate somewhat from the
traditional Greek recipe, some cooks even add orange juice. Just keep
it really simple....the Kraken has a delicate flavour which you'll need
to preserve as best you can. We ate Kraken with some bread and a green
salad. We enjoyed it hugely, and I was surprised at the missus to be
honest. She's not normally one for scoffing strange creatures, but she
couldn't get enough of this beasty. She didn't even stop eating to say
"Thanks, Doll" or wipe the great swaithes of braising sauce from her
face. Bless.

I would like to thank the creator of the trotter dish, as I thought the only WAY a trotter could be cooked was pan fried.
Well I was entertaining for a couple of ex Foly Bergere friends of mine from the Alsace, the other morning, and they were tres impressed with the results. I was bloated with pride.
So thanks again, and please keep knocking em out.
Posted by: Juan Martín Du Parké | June 13, 2007 at 03:41 AM